The bleach white crosses in Normandy

 A few weeks ago, I joined the ranks of 18 Yale Alumni for what we subsequently described as a pilgrimage. We started our voyage in London, retracing the steps taken by so many some 65 years ago as they embarked in England and crossed the frigid waters of the English Channel, only to land in the turbulent cold waters of the hard sandy beaches of Normandy. From the Cabinet War Rooms and adjoining Churchill Museum, to Bletchley Park, Southwick House, and the Historic Dockyard in Portsmouth, we learned of Churchill, Britain at War, and the intricate preparations for what remains today the largest and most successful beach landing in history.

 

From Portsmouth we then boarded a ferry and crossed the English Channel. Though our crossing was significantly more comfortable than that of “the boys” on the night of June 5th and the early hours of June 6th 1944, we none-the-less carried with us the weight of their journey.

 In Normandy, we viewed the colorful stained glass windows in the small town church of Sainte Mère Eglise honoring members of the 101st and 82nd Airborne divisions who parachuted into town in the night of June 5, and explored the adjoining Paratrooper Museum. We walked the hallowed sand at Utah Beach and Omaha Beach where many American lives were lost and decisive beach-heads secured, and viewed the towering cliffs scaled by intrepid Rangers at Pointe du Hoc. We paid our respects at the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer and at the British Cemetery in Bayeux. We were reminded that war affects all sides of the conflict, and that the soldiers our young forces were fighting against were no less boys, and no less human than our own as we walked the grounds of the German cemetery at La Cambe. We gained knowledge and perspective regarding the Mulberry harbors at Arromanches (and all the material and troops which came through the artificial port) and the continued campaign that was the battle of Normandy which raged on for weeks after the June 6th landings. We were challenged along the way to respect those who died, respect those who fought, yet also to resist the temptation of glorifying war…

 Among the many highlights of the trip – three stand out for me. The first, in England, at Bletchley Park. One of our travelers had done research prior to the trip and had discovered that among the 30,000 men and women who worked tirelessly to decipher the Enigma Code, 300 were Americans. And among those 300 Americans were 6 “Yalies.” As a result of this discovery, a plaque was made and as we started our visit at Bletchley we had the honor of presenting it to the Bletchley Trust, commemorating the work, sacrifice and commitment of those 6 men and the part they played in gathering intelligence which shortened the war and saved lives.

 

Our friend the Scot.

 The second occurred in Normandy, on Omaha Beach. We were approached by an older woman who asked us if we were Americans. When we responded affirmatively, she said “I’m here with my husband. He is a Scott, but he served with the Americans and landed here. This is his first time back. Can you please come speak with him?” It was an incredibly touching act and many were moved both by what this veteran had to share, and by his wife’s seeking us out. Our group thanked him for his sacrifice and courage.

 And finally, for me personally – Sainte Mère Eglise. Our first official stop in Normandy was Sainte Mère Eglise. As we pulled into the town square, we were surprised to see it was market day. Having grown up in Normandy, I was thrilled by the unexpected treat of walking through this small market, with all its familiar colors, sounds, smells and yes – tastes! My soul was fed, my spirits reborn! Some of our travelers purchased aged Calvados and shared the delicious treat with the rest of the group at the end of a long, emotion-filled day. How perfect.

 

Marie-Rose

Senior Tour Manager

Academic Travel Abroad

I had wanted to travel to Ethiopia ever since my earliest childhood.  A friend of our family was one of the financial advisors of Emperor Haile Selassie and, every time he came back from Ethiopia, he would tell all these wonderful stories which only increased my curiosity about this exotic country. I vowed I would one day travel there myself. This proved to be a difficult proposition. Decades passed and despite my husband’s and my travels all over the world, visiting Ethiopia continued to be as elusive as ever. It seemed that I might never get to see the country that has held such fascination for me for so many years — until last month!

The Pacific Science Center in Seattle had for some time featured an exhibit entitled  “Lucy’s Legacy: The Hidden Treasures of Ethiopia”. As a grand finale to the exhibit, PSC offered a trip to Ethiopia in order to explore Lucy’s ancestral home and cultural heritage firsthand.  A small intrepid group of travelers thus embarked on a two-week tour of the country. I had the pleasure of traveling with them as tour manager.

Ethiopia was everything I expected and more. It is an extraordinary, mysterious and beautiful country with lovely hospitable people. We were able to see its diverse landscape, fauna and flora many of which are endemic. For example, one thing that surprised us all was the abundance and richness of bird life. Ethiopia boasts 862 species of birds (of which 17 are endemic to the country and another 13 semi endemic) and we were lucky enough to see 38 of them during the course of this trip and without really trying! Bird watchers take note!

One of our first excursions was to Melka Kunture, an important Stone Age archeological site in Ethiopia. Here we saw many examples of beautiful two-edged hand axes, obsidian scrapers (obsidian is still laying around everywhere) and sets of round stones used in nets to throw at animals in order to catch them.  We also visited the rock-hewn church of Adadi Mariam. Dating back to the 12^th century, it has beautiful murals.  But what made this day even more special and unusual was the lunch prepared for us at the site of Melka Kunture.  Our Ethiopian partner had arranged for a cook – the best in Ethiopia we were told – to bring his staff  and prepare lunch for us. When we arrived, a festive table was set up under acacia trees and a blue awning.  On another table, a buffet with injera and a delicious looking array of dishes was beckoning to us. To add to the festive atmosphere a traditionally dressed lady was seated on one side ready to host the traditional Ethiopian Coffee Ceremony for us. The Coffee Ceremony — central to the Ethiopian lifestyle — is accompanied by an elaborate ritual. The hostess was seated on a low wooden stool before a tiny charcoal stove. First, she spread fresh grass and flowers on the ground around the brazier where the beans were going to be roasted. After lighting some incense in order to perfume the air, she first washed the beans, then roasted them in a pan. The beans were then ground manually with a pestle and mortar; then brewed with water in a pot until it started to bubble. The aroma of the roasting beans and warming coffee filled the air and we all anxiously waited for the coffee to be ready.  When it was, we were served in tiny ceramic handle-less cups.  It was so good that we lingered for a long while and many of us went for second and third cups!

The next day we left Addis Ababa and set forth on the northern historical and cultural route. During our journey we saw five out of eight UNESCO Heritage Sites. Our program was varied and full and yet flexible enough to fit in an extra stop at a village for a demonstration of how injera was made or see a weaver at work or take in a colorful local market.

Our first stop was at Bahir Dar on Lake Tana which is dotted with island monasteries and churches. Upon arrival we were whisked off by boat to visit two of them featuring beautiful murals and 12^th century manuscripts. In the afternoon we explored the Blue Nile Falls. They are perhaps not as spectacular as they once were — water has been diverted upstream for a dam – but many of our members enjoyed the excursion anyway.

We flew to Gondar and visited the royal enclosure with its six castles. One of the group’s favorite stops was the village of AwraAmba where the founder has a philosophy that men and women are equal and therefore everyone has to perform the daily tasks. There are no set tasks that are just for women or just for men. Here the residents support each other from birth to death.  We met with the founder who has dedicated his whole life to this philosophy of moving people beyond society’s accepted roles and thus making life better for everyone. It was an inspirational experience.

The next day we drove through dramatic mountain scenery to the Simien National Park. The park is known for its distinct ecology, animals and vegetation. We were lucky to get a glimpse of the bleeding heart baboon – endemic to this region.

Our next stop was in Axum where, the Ethiopians believe, the original Ark of the Covenant was brought from Jerusalem by Emperor Menelik 1, the son of Queen of Sheba and King Solomon of Israel. Axum is also known for its huge monolithic stelae made of granite with identical decorations.  The biggest of them, now fallen, was 33 meters high and weighs 500 tons, making it the largest monolith in the world.

No trip would be complete without a visit to the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. There we spent two nights and visited all 13 churches in the two complexes. The churches are attributed to King Lalibela – around 1200 AD. Built underground, with a network of interconnected subterranean passageways, lighting systems and water works, they are generally considered to be very sophisticated architectural and engineering feats. These churches have remained of outmost importance to the Orthodox Christian religion to this day.

All this combined with frequent interactions with local population at markets and in villages made this a trip of a lifetime.  And, to seal the experience for me personally, our daughter is adopting an Ethiopian a baby girl whom I was able to visit at the orphanage.  It just does not get any better than that.

Izabella Van Raalte
Tour Manager

Academic Travel Abroad website

Pacific Science Center website 

  

Moroccan musician

I was standing on the Djemaa el Fna in Marrakech in March when I “got” something about Morocco that had been eluding me.  The Djemaa is the sprawling square in the Medina where the sounds, the smells and the soul of Marrakech jump and dance and waft all day every day and far into the night. I was standing there as evening began to fall, watching a group of gnaoua musicians perform for an appreciative crowd of Moroccans. The audience surrounded them in a thick circle on the square, clapping, laughing, swaying their shoulders to the infectious beat. I didn’t understand the words of the song, but I could feel how completely involved the audience was with the performance. I could see it in their eyes, feel it in the movement of their bodies.

That’s when I understood this simple truth: despite the impossibly rich spectacle of Moroccan markets and the awe-provoking tableaux of deserts, mountains and farm villages that greet you as you travel through, the real richness of Morocco is in the people. This is a truly warm, friendly country where a sincere smile will melt a scowl like the spring sun on the Atlas snow. They are as complex and diverse as their long turbulent history, but their hospitality is sincere. Even when Moroccans are trying to sell you something (often), they will be happy just to talk, learn about you, offer you sweet tea and opinions. Yes, it helps if you speak Arabic or Berber or French, but they will find a way to communicate with you.

Street olive market

On the Djemaa that night, when the musicians had finished, a story teller came into the circle, dramatically took off several layers of clothing, then began to move around the group, making jokes about people and extracting a 5 dirham coin from each of them.  Again, I didn’t understand the words, but couldn’t help myself from joining in the infectious laughter of the crowd. I was enfolded into Morocco that evening, entranced, enticed. I am very glad indeed to be going back.

Andrew Simon
Tour Manager

MOROCCO TOURS:

National Geographic Expeditions: Moroccan Odyssey

American Museum of Natural History: Morocco

Academic Travel Abroad

 

Tourism Cares Event in Gettysburg, PA

Times are tight, and our business is asking us to do more with less. Being smart with every penny is the message of the day, both at home and at the office.  When stress is high, where do we turn to for a much needed break?

Despite the gloomy economic news, Academic Travel Abroad’s staff has found ways to kick back while giving back, and creating the “feel good” sensation along the way. 

Within the last few weeks, ATA staff has participated in several exciting community activities that provide a much-needed break in these demanding times. 

On April 17^th, several staff members participated with Tourism Cares in Gettysburg, Pennsylvania to help renovate and clean up historic Spangler Farm. Used as a Union field hospital, it is the location where General Lewis Addison Armistead died after being mortally wounded in Pickett’s Charge during the Battle of Gettysburg. ATA staff joined 300 other volunteers in clearing out underbrush on the fields and removing invasive, tangled vines across the property. As day’s end, everyone departed with a sense of community and sharing. 

On April 22nd, Earth Day, several more members of the ATA staff joined the Nature Conservancy on the Washington and Old Dominion Trail for some trail clean-up.  They spent the afternoon clearing out more of the invasive vines that harm the ecosystem of woodland areas. With a little sweat and determination, they made a “green” dent in a small section of the trail.

Just yesterday, several more of our staff ventured out in the afternoon for a special tour of the National Gallery of Arts Dutch Cityscapes of the Golden Age led by Eric Denker, Senior Lecturer at the museum, and ATA’s Venice study leader.  The paintings were magnificent and rave reviews came back regarding Eric’s insight and knowledge of the artwork.

Participating in community events, volunteering time, and simply enjoying some of the amazing local museums – whether individually or with staff members – can be a terrific way to recharge our batteries!

Academic Travel Abroad website

Catedral de San Cristóbal de la Habana

Yesterday’s announcement by the Obama Administration easing travel restrictions to Cuba from the United States for Cuban Americans has sent a ripple throughout the travel community. It is ATA’s hope that educational and cultural travel to Cuba will also soon be restored. Airline companies are suddenly rushing to find small planes and potential carriers to fulfill the undoubtedly large upcoming demand for travel to the Caribbean island nation.

Here are just a few of the reasons why Cuba is a compelling destination for the intellectually curious traveler:

Cuba’s art and music beautifully reflect the Spanish and African influence on the island throughout its history. From native to contemporary art, galleries have become a popular venue for Cubans to display emerging styles.

Below are some recent articles related to Cuban art;
• online.wsj.com
• cubancontemporaryart.com
• www.nytimes.com

Cuba’s dynamic musical heritage ranges from Latin jazz to salsa to bolero, where dancing is virtually a Cuban pastime. Cuba is also home to a unique Spanish-influenced architecture ranging from the more urban and contemporary Havana to the colonial town of Trinidad, with cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs. Read more about Cuban architecture here.

Between towns you’ll find the rolling hillsides of the Vinales Valley, the Valley of the Sugar Mills, and the historical tobacco farms for which Cuba has become famous.

Cuba’s history is portrayed throughout its cities and landscapes with Spanish fortresses, several UNESCO World Heritage sites, Ernest Hemingway’s home, 19th-century French settlements and local horticultural treasures like the Cienfuegos Botanical Gardens.

As soon as political conditions permit, Academic Travel looks forward to re-entering the educational travel market in Cuba. From 2000-2002, ATA operated successful programs in Cuba for several organizations, including National Geographic Expeditions, The Bayly Art Museum, The Florence-Griswold Museum, The University of Maryland, and Vanderbilt University.

Academic Travel Abroad

Members of Academic Travel Abroad staff will volunteering their day on Friday April 17th, 2009 at the Tourism Cares event at Spangler Farm in Gettyburg, PA.

Tourism Cares was formed by the combining of the National Tourism Foundation, founded by the National Tour Association in 1982, and the Travelers Conservation Foundation, founded in 1999 by the United States Tour Operators Association. The resulting non-profit organization benefits society by preserving the travel experience for future generations through awarding grants to natural, cultural and historic sites worldwide; by presenting academic and service-focused scholarships to hospitality and tourism students; and by organizing volunteer efforts to restore tourism-related sites in need of care and rejuvenation.

Gettysburg, PA

A re-enactment at Gettysburg battlefields.

In April, 2009 Tourism Cares will embark on its 7th Annual Tourism Cares for America project at Spangler Farm in Gettysburg, PA. Gettysburg and Spangler Farm are sites whose significance in US history cannot be overstated. Sitting on 80 acres in rural Pennsylvania, Spangler Farm was used as a field hospital for thousands of wounded soldiers during the Battle of Gettysburg. Spangler Farm also serves as the sight of the death of Confederate General Lewis Armistead, who led the climactic event of the three day battle – Pickett’s Charge. Today, the property is one of the last field hospitals kept intact as it was in 1863.

Gettysburg is the place where 165,000 soldiers met to fight for their beliefs. It is the place where Abraham Lincoln helped mend a torn nation with his Gettysburg Address, and the place where millions have stood to reflect on the importance of the events that occurred there. Gettysburg was the battle with the largest number of casualties in the American Civil War and is frequently cited as the war’s turning point. It is the place where our country was saved, and it has come to symbolize the utmost in patrotism. Gettysburg is our nation’s common ground.
Volunteers will be involved in painting, replacing fencing, demolition of modern structures, clearing brush, repairing the outbuildings, and much more.

So come join the ATA staff and the others in the tourism community at this event to help preserve some our greatest American history and meet new members of the travel and tourism in the area.

Visit Tourism Cares website here

Visit ATA’s website here

Mongolian Landscape

As we all continue to tighten our belts when it comes to spending on things we once considered necessary, travel is one of the line-items that can fall into a gray area of our budgets.  A little tweaking of the way we look at booking travel can help us justify what is feasible, and how we can make our vacations all the more memorable.

“Location, location, location!” isn’t just for real estate these days.  If you’re already halfway around the world, make it count!   Once you’ve already booked a trip to Mongolia, consider extending your vacation by stopping in Beijing or Seoul for a few days to a week before making your way back home.  Airlines often offer special rates for extended layovers, and hotel internet specials are becoming better and better, especially when you book 2 or more nights.  Try this strategy with a Paris vacation before your arrival in Morocco; a stopover in Munich or Frankfurt on your way to or from Italy; or spend a few days in Lisbon after you disembark your Mediterranean cruise.  It’s all the satisfaction of 2 vacations for a margin of the cost of doing them separately – plus you’ll be better adjusted to the time difference and won’t spend nearly as many hours in-flight.  So keep checking off those places on your bucket lists, or simply re-visit that city you’ve been dying to get back to for years.  Whatever your reasoning or motivation, now is the time to make your trips go further.

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Karl Brullov, The Last Day of Pompeii (1830-33)

In just two short days the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum lay in ruins and partially covers in a thick layer of volcanic ash.  In AD 79 Mt. Vesuvius erupted and caught the citizens of both by complete surprise.  Now excavated and a remarkable sight to behold, one can envision the likes of what these cities might have been in their prime.   Bustling city-towns of trade, large agoras and markets, amphitheaters, forums and baths where frescos and unique tile work still remain today.

The area today stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has become one of the most visited location in Italy.  The region around Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, is dotted with quaint pastel colored villages that scale volcanic cliffs and are surrounded by turquoise seas.  Positano and Amalfi are two of the areas fascinating towns, situated along the beautiful Mediterranean waters.  Sorrento is yet another seaside gem which was once a cherished retreat of poets like Byron and Keats.

Ruins of a forum in Pompeii

Smithsonian Journeys offers a unique tour to this area that is unmatched.  Tour the archeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum and witness their story, walk the sun drenched streets of seaside towns, take a tour of Naples and its inner old city, and take in a wealth of information from Study Leader Federico Poole, an archeologist who has worked on a variety of sites in the Campania region.  Stay in four-star accommodations in Naples with views of the Castel dell’Ovo and the Mediterranean.

 

To find out more about this tour, please visit Smithsonian Journeys website for full itinerary, accommodations and tour pricing here

The historical home of Bloomfield.

Many think of Bermuda as a subtropical island get-away in the north Atlantic, where sun, pink sandy beaches and crystal clear turquoise waters of the Sargasso Sea can wipe away the ever-present stresses of our hectic every day lives on the main land.

But there is so much more to these tightly clustered islands then meets the eye. Bermuda was discovered in 1503 by a Spanish explorer, Juan de Bermúdez., then was permanently settled by the British in 1612 as they sailed to Virgina. Bermuda’s town of St. George (originally named New London) has now been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its depth in world history and culture.

St. George is rich in historical homes and gardens, seaports, quaint lighthouses and museums of the likes one could not find anywhere else in the world. Beautiful gardens surround private white and pink-washed Georgian houses of Bermuda coral limestone, furnished with Bermuda-made cedar furniture and still owned by the original families.

The Royal Navy dockyard has attracted visitors with specific interests military history as it was the acting principal base of the Royal British Navy in the Western Atlantic between the periods of American independence and the Cold War.

Should you be thinking of visiting these islands, it is worth mentioning that the National Trust for Historic Preservation will be hosting a terrific tour to Bermuda November 1-6, 2009.

Specialists will join in for visits, discussions and receptions to share their expertise on such topics as architecture and decorative arts, British forts and native and resident artists. Time to simply relax and absorb the gracious atmosphere of this enchanted island are ample – where narrow lanes, winding roads and well-tended gardens blend easily with pink sand and that famous turquoise sea.

Highlights of this journey include a tour of Verdmont, the “crown jewel” of the Bermuda National Trust; a walking tour of Hamilton and time to explore the famous Front Street; and a visit to Tucker House, home to Bermuda’s most famous families.

Inside the Bloomfield home.

Bermuda holds a special interest for National Trust members because of the programs of our sister organization, the Bermuda National Trust. Since its establishment in 1969, the Bermuda Trust has acquired more than 60 historic properties and open-space areas in Bermuda, and is a formidable force in the preservation of this fragile island. Hosts from the Bermuda National Trust’s Cultural Tourism Office share their experience and knowledge of preservation issues of their well-kept monuments. To learn more about his tour, download this brochure from the National Trust for Historic Preservation or visit their website here or contact the tour operator, Academic travel Abroad for more information about Bermuda and this one of a kind tour.

  The Trans-Siberian Express

Completed at the end of the 19th century, the Trans-Siberian Railway allows adventurous travelers to journey 6,000 miles across Russia’s great expanse. Smithsonian Journeys and Academic Travel Abroad offer a unique travel experience in 2009 aboard the newly-renovated, luxury Golden Eagle Express, traveling from the enigmatic Russian Far East and its legendary outposts to Moscow’s Red Square, crossing eight time zones and two continents.  Along the way stopping in remote outposts to learn about the fascinating peoples and cultures of Siberia and Mongolia, visit museums, and enjoy a traditional meal in a private ger (tented home). Exclusive lectures by historian George Munro highlight Russian history from before the Romanovs to the present. Even the most experienced travelers will be spellbound by this special journey. Click here to read more…

The Trans-Siberian Expert:

George Munro

George Munro is Professor of History at Virginia Commonwealth University. He received his Ph.D. at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and is the recipient of several Fulbright grants, fellowships, and distinguished service awards. George has lived and studied in the former Soviet Union and served as Study Leader for many Smithsonian Journeys.  

 

 

In a recent interview, Dr. Munro reflected on train travel in Russia: 

“For a century and a half trains have been one of the important means of transportation in Russia. Railroads figure largely in Russian literature-see Anna Karenina! Railroad workers and factories producing equipment for the railroads played a critical role in Russia’s revolutions in the early 20th century. From train windows one glimpses some of the most beautiful Russian scenes as well as the disadvantaged areas that no country deliberately shows its visitors. The view from the train combines a little bit of everything in Russia. To actually live on a train while seeing Russia is a real treat.”

Learn more about this unique adventure here

presented by Smithsonian Journeys
and Academic Travel Abroad