Photo of the Brandenburg Gate by Thomas Wolfe

Two weeks ago I was in Berlin just a week before the 20^th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall. I couldn’t help but remember my very first trip to Berlin in 1970 when I led a group of American experts, professors and students on a study tour of Urban European Development.

We had traveled from Amsterdam to West Berlin on the overnight train and after two days studying the revival of West Berlin, we crossed into East Berlin.  The Wall had been quickly erected in 1961 and East Berliners could not longer cross into West Berlin while we, as international travelers, could cross only on the S-Bahn (elevated City Railroad) or by car at Checkpoint Charlie.

After touring a revitalized West Berlin we boarded the S-Bahn at the Zoologischer Garten Station and crossed the border into East Berlin.  From the train one could easily see the Wall and the “dead zone” with the East German guard towers.  At Friedrichstrasse Station we got off and passed through East German customs where we were required to exchange 25 West German Deutsche Marks for 25 East German Marks.  Of course the real value was nowhere near one to one but it didn’t matter for there was little one could buy.

We walked from the Friedrichstrasse Station down side streets towards the Brandenburg Gate.  The contrast with West Berlin was striking for the shops were few and their windows had little to offer.  Unter den Linden, once the great ceremonial boulevard of Imperial Berlin, had been rebuilt in a uniform sterile Soviet architectural style.  We did have a look at the famous Museum Island which had housed the impressive Prussian Museums but was bombed out in World War II.  Little did we know that it would be almost another 40 years until the last of the museums would be rebuilt.  So, after walking around a bit longer we scurried back to the S-Bahn and the bright lights of West Berlin.

Over the next 40 years I must have visited Berlin a least a dozen times often for the ITB tourism exhibition.  After the fall of the wall in 1989 it took a while for the momentum of change to grow.  Susan and I recall emerging from the U-Bahn Station at Potsdamer Platz in 1993 to find that the cleared open area “dead zone” by the wall was still there.  But all of this changed quickly and today Potsdamer Platz’s with its dynamic modern skyscrapers is the symbol of the New Berlin.

The newly reopened Neues Museum in Berlin

This recent visit just prior to the 20^th anniversary was a striking contrast.  The Neues Museum, the last museum on Museum Island to be rebuilt, had just re-opened after years of reconstruction and we quickly obtained tickets to view its great Egyptian and Roman collections.  Stunningly displayed within the ruins of the old 19^th century building was the bust of Nefertiti and other amazing items from the collections.

But the even more amazing was that East Berlin has once again become the true heart of the united Berlin.  While the former West Berlin is still lovely and full of life, the surge of development in the Mitte District in just 20 years has created scores of offices, hotels, restaurant and shops and the once sterile Unter den Linden is again thronged with scores of people night and day.  And the artistic and cultural revival is equally dynamic.  Perhaps Berlin is today Europe’s most exciting capital city.

ACADEMIC TRAVEL ABROAD, INC. LAUNCHES NEW SALES DIVISION

Professionals Abroad debuts on September 1, 2009

Washington, DC, September 2009—Academic Travel Abroad, a 59-year old international travel company that has served the country’s elite non-profit organizations, museums, and universities in operating specialized educational and cultural programs, will launch a new sales division on September 1^st.

Professionals Abroad will develop and market high quality international professional programs to associations for their members’ career development, continuing education and cultural enrichment. These programs will provide an opportunity for associations to engage in counterpart exchange and international outreach.  Dawn Davis, formerly the Executive Director of Citizen Ambassador Program, a division of the People to People Ambassador Program in Spokane, Washington, will lead the Professionals Abroad team. Dawn brings over twenty years of experience with professional delegations to ATA, and maintains strong relationships with many of the country’s largest professional organizations.

ATA has ensured its long term stability through diversification of its portfolio. In 1994, ATA acquired CET Academic Programs, a premier study abroad organization. In 2005, ATA acquired Grandtravel, the originator of travel programs designed exclusively for grandparents and grandchildren. In addition, the company manages the reservation and customer service centers for National Geographic Expeditions, Smithsonian Journeys, and The American Museum of Natural History’s Expeditions, as well as managing the overall AMNH tour program as the Museum’s outsource partner.

“We are delighted to be entering a new market,” said Chase Poffenberger, ATA’s Executive Vice President. “Dawn Davis brings a wealth of energy, creativity and professionalism to the company and we feel fortunate that she will be leading our new division.” While Dawn will reside in Washington State, she will travel to ATA’s offices in Washington, DC regularly and collaborate with ATA’s marketing, programming and customer service teams.

To learn more about this program, contact:

Chase Poffenberger
Executive Vice President
Academic Travel Abroad

Portrait of Galileo Galilei

Did you know it is the 400th anniversary of Galileo’s discovery of the telescope? I am very excited to be escorting this unique trip with Smithsonian Journeys which will take us through the major landmarks where Galileo lived, studied, and wrote his most landmark achievements. Leading us is an expert in communicating the wonderment of science to all types of audiences – popular Harvard scientist, David Aguilar.

Some highlights include Venice’s Murano Glass Factory to learn about the art of glass-making and see where Galileo obtained the very glass used in his telescope lenses. Later we are off to an evening of stargazing in Padua from the place where Galileo first discovered Jupiter’s moons, telling him more of the nature of orbiting planets in our solar system and directly contradicting established beliefs that everything revolved around the Earth. In Florence, we’ll visit where the great astronomer’s theories were first attacked from the pulpit in Santa Maria Novella, the city’s first great basilica and principal Dominican church. And in Arcetri, we’ll enjoy stunning views and glimpse the Villa il Gioello, where the persecuted scientist spent the final years of his life.

Off to a fascinating voyage of discovery and we still have a few spots left – please join us!

October 11-18, 2009, with Smithsonian Journeys

The bleach white crosses in Normandy

 A few weeks ago, I joined the ranks of 18 Yale Alumni for what we subsequently described as a pilgrimage. We started our voyage in London, retracing the steps taken by so many some 65 years ago as they embarked in England and crossed the frigid waters of the English Channel, only to land in the turbulent cold waters of the hard sandy beaches of Normandy. From the Cabinet War Rooms and adjoining Churchill Museum, to Bletchley Park, Southwick House, and the Historic Dockyard in Portsmouth, we learned of Churchill, Britain at War, and the intricate preparations for what remains today the largest and most successful beach landing in history.

From Portsmouth we then boarded a ferry and crossed the English Channel. Though our crossing was significantly more comfortable than that of “the boys” on the night of June 5th and the early hours of June 6th 1944, we none-the-less carried with us the weight of their journey.

 In Normandy, we viewed the colorful stained glass windows in the small town church of Sainte Mère Eglise honoring members of the 101st and 82nd Airborne divisions who parachuted into town in the night of June 5, and explored the adjoining Paratrooper Museum. We walked the hallowed sand at Utah Beach and Omaha Beach where many American lives were lost and decisive beach-heads secured, and viewed the towering cliffs scaled by intrepid Rangers at Pointe du Hoc. We paid our respects at the American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer and at the British Cemetery in Bayeux. We were reminded that war affects all sides of the conflict, and that the soldiers our young forces were fighting against were no less boys, and no less human than our own as we walked the grounds of the German cemetery at La Cambe. We gained knowledge and perspective regarding the Mulberry harbors at Arromanches (and all the material and troops which came through the artificial port) and the continued campaign that was the battle of Normandy which raged on for weeks after the June 6th landings. We were challenged along the way to respect those who died, respect those who fought, yet also to resist the temptation of glorifying war…

 Among the many highlights of the trip – three stand out for me. The first, in England, at Bletchley Park. One of our travelers had done research prior to the trip and had discovered that among the 30,000 men and women who worked tirelessly to decipher the Enigma Code, 300 were Americans. And among those 300 Americans were 6 “Yalies.” As a result of this discovery, a plaque was made and as we started our visit at Bletchley we had the honor of presenting it to the Bletchley Trust, commemorating the work, sacrifice and commitment of those 6 men and the part they played in gathering intelligence which shortened the war and saved lives.

Our friend the Scot.

 The second occurred in Normandy, on Omaha Beach. We were approached by an older woman who asked us if we were Americans. When we responded affirmatively, she said “I’m here with my husband. He is a Scott, but he served with the Americans and landed here. This is his first time back. Can you please come speak with him?” It was an incredibly touching act and many were moved both by what this veteran had to share, and by his wife’s seeking us out. Our group thanked him for his sacrifice and courage.

 And finally, for me personally – Sainte Mère Eglise. Our first official stop in Normandy was Sainte Mère Eglise. As we pulled into the town square, we were surprised to see it was market day. Having grown up in Normandy, I was thrilled by the unexpected treat of walking through this small market, with all its familiar colors, sounds, smells and yes – tastes! My soul was fed, my spirits reborn! Some of our travelers purchased aged Calvados and shared the delicious treat with the rest of the group at the end of a long, emotion-filled day. How perfect.

Marie-Rose

Senior Tour Manager

Academic Travel Abroad

Mongolian Landscape

As we all continue to tighten our belts when it comes to spending on things we once considered necessary, travel is one of the line-items that can fall into a gray area of our budgets.  A little tweaking of the way we look at booking travel can help us justify what is feasible, and how we can make our vacations all the more memorable.

“Location, location, location!” isn’t just for real estate these days.  If you’re already halfway around the world, make it count!   Once you’ve already booked a trip to Mongolia, consider extending your vacation by stopping in Beijing or Seoul for a few days to a week before making your way back home.  Airlines often offer special rates for extended layovers, and hotel internet specials are becoming better and better, especially when you book 2 or more nights.  Try this strategy with a Paris vacation before your arrival in Morocco; a stopover in Munich or Frankfurt on your way to or from Italy; or spend a few days in Lisbon after you disembark your Mediterranean cruise.  It’s all the satisfaction of 2 vacations for a margin of the cost of doing them separately – plus you’ll be better adjusted to the time difference and won’t spend nearly as many hours in-flight.  So keep checking off those places on your bucket lists, or simply re-visit that city you’ve been dying to get back to for years.  Whatever your reasoning or motivation, now is the time to make your trips go further.

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Karl Brullov, The Last Day of Pompeii (1830-33)

In just two short days the Roman cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum lay in ruins and partially covers in a thick layer of volcanic ash.  In AD 79 Mt. Vesuvius erupted and caught the citizens of both by complete surprise.  Now excavated and a remarkable sight to behold, one can envision the likes of what these cities might have been in their prime.   Bustling city-towns of trade, large agoras and markets, amphitheaters, forums and baths where frescos and unique tile work still remain today.

The area today stands as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has become one of the most visited location in Italy.  The region around Pompeii, the Amalfi Coast, is dotted with quaint pastel colored villages that scale volcanic cliffs and are surrounded by turquoise seas.  Positano and Amalfi are two of the areas fascinating towns, situated along the beautiful Mediterranean waters.  Sorrento is yet another seaside gem which was once a cherished retreat of poets like Byron and Keats.

Ruins of a forum in Pompeii

Smithsonian Journeys offers a unique tour to this area that is unmatched.  Tour the archeological sites of Pompeii and Herculaneum and witness their story, walk the sun drenched streets of seaside towns, take a tour of Naples and its inner old city, and take in a wealth of information from Study Leader Federico Poole, an archeologist who has worked on a variety of sites in the Campania region.  Stay in four-star accommodations in Naples with views of the Castel dell’Ovo and the Mediterranean.

To find out more about this tour, please visit Smithsonian Journeys website for full itinerary, accommodations and tour pricing here

  The Trans-Siberian Express

Completed at the end of the 19th century, the Trans-Siberian Railway allows adventurous travelers to journey 6,000 miles across Russia’s great expanse. Smithsonian Journeys and Academic Travel Abroad offer a unique travel experience in 2009 aboard the newly-renovated, luxury Golden Eagle Express, traveling from the enigmatic Russian Far East and its legendary outposts to Moscow’s Red Square, crossing eight time zones and two continents.  Along the way stopping in remote outposts to learn about the fascinating peoples and cultures of Siberia and Mongolia, visit museums, and enjoy a traditional meal in a private ger (tented home). Exclusive lectures by historian George Munro highlight Russian history from before the Romanovs to the present. Even the most experienced travelers will be spellbound by this special journey. Click here to read more…

The Trans-Siberian Expert:

George Munro is Professor of History at Virginia Commonwealth University. He received his Ph.D. at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and is the recipient of several Fulbright grants, fellowships, and distinguished service awards. George has lived and studied in the former Soviet Union and served as Study Leader for many Smithsonian Journeys.  

In a recent interview, Dr. Munro reflected on train travel in Russia: 

“For a century and a half trains have been one of the important means of transportation in Russia. Railroads figure largely in Russian literature-see Anna Karenina! Railroad workers and factories producing equipment for the railroads played a critical role in Russia’s revolutions in the early 20th century. From train windows one glimpses some of the most beautiful Russian scenes as well as the disadvantaged areas that no country deliberately shows its visitors. The view from the train combines a little bit of everything in Russia. To actually live on a train while seeing Russia is a real treat.”

Learn more about this unique adventure here

presented by Smithsonian Journeys
and Academic Travel Abroad 

Chairman David Parry and President Kate Simpson need two hands to count the number of world crises they have weathered together as leaders of Academic Travel Abroad, a 59-year-old educational travel company based in Washington, D.C.

The OPEC crisis, Chernobyl, Tiananmen Square, Desert Storm, 9/11, SARS, and other world events are the backdrop upon which ATA has designed and operated innovative travel and study abroad programs for decades. Throw in the normal boom and bust cycles of the U.S. economy and both Dave and Kate agree that they can’t imagine a more interesting and challenging business to manage!

While ATA has “been there and done that” during previous downturns, the current crisis is a “perfect storm” of factors that have deeply affected the older, educated, affluent Americans who form ATA’s customer base. However, while other travel companies have panicked and slashed prices to improve bookings in the short term, ATA has taken its usual, “no drama” approach and has applied a set of timeless management techniques that have steered the company out of choppy waters in the past.

Here are a few secrets from their survival play book:

• A diversified product line that caters to travelers at several different “life stages”
• A commitment to superior customer service and strong value-added components in all of its programs
• A strong investment in marketing
• An innovative product line that meets the traveler’s need for shorter programs that don’t skimp on education
• A long term plan to be prepared when the market rebounds
• A relentless focus on strong business principles, such as containing overhead costs and maintaining a strong cash flow

Academic TravelAbroad

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We all count down the days until departing on an overseas trip to a new place we’ve never experienced before or even one which we dearly love.  The day arrives and the eager anticipation overwhelms us.  We meticulously plan out every day while we’re gone – right down to how many pairs of socks and what color tooth brush to bring.  Our bags are taken by the luggage clerk and we board the plane, now able to relax a little before all the excitement begins.  Everything’s accounted for, all is foreseen and planned to the “T.”  From this point, everything always go according to plan, right?

Well, not always.  Any number of minor inconveniences can throw a stick in our spokes such as a delayed flight or missed train.  Small headaches arise here and there, but we overcome. Now, consider something more severe.  Think of those who were traveling in China when the earthquake struck, or others who might have been caught exploring beautiful Tibet during the recent uprisings and riots, or even travelers falling ill mid-journey.

Academic Travel Abroad (ATA) is a well established tour operator which prides itself on its distinct ability to manage such situations while hosting travelers on their many worldwide tours.  ATA realizes that anything from delayed flights to mother nature to local political and social disturbances can occur at any time without warning and can immediately effect the tour itinerary or operation.  ATA staff are trained for these disturbances and quickly react in a way that can provide safety, comfort and a sense of normalcy regardless of the level of adjustments needed to the tour.  ATA has been in business for over fifty years and has encountered many such situations in the past and has refined their skills and abilities when addressing such issues while on tour.  The safety and satisfaction of our travelers is our primary concern at every step along each tour.

Although traveling on your own can render a sense of freedom while abroad, there are many reasons to consider traveling to new destination with a managed tour as they can provide resources and staff trained to handle everything from language barriers to medical needs and provide a real and tangible sense of security and enjoyment while abroad.

Safe travels!

Academic Travel Abroad website

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Sneaking into Russia!

During the excitement over the dissolution of the Soviet Union in late 1991 I attended a meeting of the American-Soviet Tourism Society in Tallinn, Estonia. With the breakup of the USSR, the three Baltic Republics were once again independent and now, I had to obtain a separate Estonian visa. When I arrived at the airport I encountered newly uniformed Estonian customs officials. Nearby stood several forlorn USSR border guards who no longer had a role to play.

I continued by air to Moscow and, at arrival at Sheretimevyo Airport, I was amazed that there was no immigration control. Clearly, the system still regarded Tallinn as an internal flight. So when I presented my passport and Russian visa at the Moscow hotel there was much discussion about the fact that all the parts of my visa were intact. (The Soviet system was to issue a separate paper visa with one part detached on arrival and, after providing authority for the hotel stay at each place, the remainder was kept upon departure. There was never a visa in the passport itself.

The same consternation occurred on check in at the Astoria Hotel in Leningrad or was it now St. Petersburg.

The finale came on departure at Leningrad’s Pulkovo Airport for home. I shuffled up to the border police stand and presented my passport and all the parts of the official visa. These passport control stands were and are booths where the shelf for presenting your passport is about 4 ½ feet high. Through the years this was usually the most uncomfortable encounter of a visit to the USSR.

The young and, as always, expressionless border guard took one look at my complete visa and rang for the supervisor. The supervisor appeared and went behind the counter where I could not see what they were looking at. There was much discussion and thumbing of my passport. My heart sunk because this meant I was going to miss my flight.

Finally, after about ten minutes, I heard the thump, thump of the official stamp on my visa and I knew that I would be free to go. As the supervisor left the booth she turned to me and exclaimed in disgust on word – Yeltsin!

Several months later the same thing happened on the night train from Vilnius, Lithuania to Moscow. But that is another story…

Dave Parry

Chairman
Academic Travel Abroad